surfmatt's blog

When Killer Whales Enter the Surf Lineup

While Orcas aren't known to hunt humans (no known deaths though a few attacks) they are HUGE creatures and these surfers were wise to give the animals plenty of room to hunt seals. Though one would have to question the decision to even stay in the water surfing while wearing black neoprene, closely resembling the seals you see frantically swimming away from the hunting Orcas. Tofino is known for it's natural beauty, and this is a wonderful example of it!

Looking for places to stay in Tofino, here are some great beachfront hotels and vacation homes - Tofino Wavecations

Where should I stay... Troncones or Saladita?

Often I’m asked about how the Mexico surf destinations Troncones and Saladita compare to one another. The two “towns” are only a few miles apart as the crow flies (15-20 minutes driving) but offer very different experiences.  Here’s my take on Troncones vs. Saladita

Troncones has some shops and nice restaurants/hotels. Troncones is a few miles of mostly non-descript beachbreak with one really good, though quite rocky, point break. This point break is called Troncones Point or Manzanillo Bay. Manzanillo Bay is a beautiful beach for walking, swimming, spearfishing, etc. The wave breaks over a rocky ledge with urchins so it’s best for intermediate to advanced surfers. I surfed it for two days, with head high waves, clear water and never more than one other guy out. Two incredible places to stay right on the point are the small boutique surf resort - The Inn at Manzanillo Bay or an incredible vacation home - Punta Pelicano.

In Summary my opinion is that Troncones is best for families, older travelers looking for a taste of “real” mexico or surfers looking for a nice place to stay (two above mentioned) that will please your spouse as well.

LAST MINUTE DECEMBER SURF TRIPS
 
We've compiled a list of hotels, houses, surf camps, condos and villas that have last minute availiblity between now and the end of the year. Lots of you have been contacting us looking to book a trip around the Christmas Holiday.

Last Minute Getaway to PR

Oceanfront One Bedroom Openings in "Villa Quinones" Units: Q3 12/31 - 1/10; Q4 12/31 - 1/3; non-of studio Q5 12/31 - 1/16

Places offering a Wavecation discount:

10% discount  Round House Barbados - Rooms from $95-165. Free b'fast and WIFI. Dec. 15-25. 
10% off 7 days  Casa Sueno - Incredible house & seculded surf. Open now through December 22
FREE SUP RENTAL  Cinco Hotel - On the beach in PUNTA MITA. Rooms now - Dec. 25
Book online  Sea-U Guest House in Barbados - Stay in front of Soup Bowls.  Dec. 15-31
20% off  Sayulita Beach House - Beautiful rooms on the point. From $50/night! Openings Dec 15-25

INFOGRAPHICS FOR SURFERS

Infographics are all the rage and the surf world has not been spared. Here's a collection from around the web of interesting, informative or shocking Infographics about surfers and the oceans we ride. 

1.  THE TOXICITY OF SURFING INFOGRAPHIC - We should be better stewards of our oceans!
source: greensurfshop.com

2. THE ECONOMICS OF SURFING
source: Surfrider Foundation

3. THINGS YOU DIDN'T KNOW ABOUT SURFING INFOGRAPHIC
source: sethfarris.com

4.  SURFERS THINK ABOUT SHARKS INFOGRAPHIC

Explore unfamiliar waves in your own vehicle with all the fun and half the hassle

Recently I met a guy from California who is involved with the car shipping business. If you’re like me and own a business then you always consider whether a new contact could be a good business connection too.  Well I quickly decided that international car shipping and surf vacations have nothing to do with one another and gave it no more thought...

But wait a minute!  What was I thinking? There is an incredible connection and it really got me daydreaming about the possibilities.  On my surf trips over the years I’ve met so many people that drive down from the U.S. far into Central America. They scour the coast of Mainland Mexico looking for empty beach breaks. Then they drive like mad to pass through Guatemala (though you can surf there too) aiming for the point breaks of El Salvador and fresh seafood cooked by locals on the beach. Next stop is northern Nicaragua with it’s empty surf breaks to explore followed by the perfectly groomed offshore waves of southern Nicaragua. Lastly for many is Costa Rica which could easily eat up a month or two of a surfers trip but if they’ve planned well they make it into Panama for a final few surf sessions.

But then what?  The trip is over, you’re surfed out and exhausted. What happens to your vehicle? Do you sell it, abandon it, trade it for a years worth of fish tacos or start the grueling 3000+ mile journey back north?

Here’s where things gets exciting. What if you only had to do the trip one-way?  You could ship your car home or even better do it in reverse! You could ship your car to Costa Rica for example and spend some time there before starting your reverse surf trip back up to the states.  How great would that be?  After months of making your way north surfing every break in sight it’s your last session on a secluded Mexican surf break with just you and your companion. You watch the sunset over the ocean one last time and fall asleep at your camp site knowing that tomorrow you’ve only got a few hours drive until you arrive back in the U.S with your own vehicle. No crazy packaging your car for shipping and customs to worry about now.  You did all that months ago when you had enough stoke to keep you motivated. Now you’re just ready for your own bed again.

So I actually looked into the cost of shipping a vehicle to Costa Rica . I used shipoverseas.com, filled out the quote form and received international car shipping rates from Austin, Texas to Liberia, Costa Rica. The quote was around $1750 for my F-150 truck with surfboards stored inside (driving the truck to the port myself would shave off about $350 from the cost).

If you’re going on an epic surf road trip for months at a time this is certainly a reasonable cost especially when you consider all the surfboards and gear you don’t have to fly down and pay airline fees for.  You will need to own your car outright (no liens) but I don't think you'd want to ship a brand new car down there anyway if you still owed money on it... not a good idea.  If you've got an old truck or surf van, that'd be the way to go!                        

So after thinking it through, shipping a car down to Central America and having it waiting for you when you arrive seems like the ultimate way to start a long term surfari. If you are planning to drive through Mexico and Central America be sure to do your research first. A good start is to check out Gringo’s Guide, a great source of info about road tripping through the region written by a surfer, Derek Dodds, who's done the trip himself.

Here's some great spots to stay along the way:

Costa Rica - Namaste Oasis Retreat
El Salvador - Vista Las Olas
Mexico  - Inn at Manzanillo Bay
Nicaragua - Pelican Eyes Resort

Tent + Beach + Surf Board = Good Times

There are few things as satisfying as spending time with friends or family at a great campsite. You remember just how little you really need to enjoy life. Simple and self-sufficient while enjoying the outdoors, that's camping. Arguably the best sort of camping is BEACH CAMPING and throw in a surfbreak in the mix and most of us couldn't be more stoked. Wherever you are in the world you can usually find a place to pitch a tent next to some great waves. The below list is a work in progress of some of our favorite beach camping spots with surf potential.  One great beach camping resource we came across was campsitephotos.com, they have an incredible selection of campsite photos from all over the U.S. and the site is very well designed.

Beach camping is inexpensive, offers loads of freedom and makes for a unique and memorble trip whether you're with the family, friends or just flying solo.

Playa Viva... From a Surfers Point of View.

Beginner Surfers at Playa Viva... not ideal for beginners but on small days it can be really fun

 

I just finished 4 days of surfing Troncones Point (Manzanillo Bay) and La Saladita and considered my surf trip over. My wife flew down so we could enjoy three nights relaxing without the kids at Playa Viva, an all inclusive boutique eco-lodge 1 hour south of Zihuatenejo.

We arrived late one afternoon to a gorgeous property styled in the popular Mexican open air architecture. The beach was expansive and empty with white sand and clear blue water. The waves however were blown out as could be expected in the afternoon and the sets were closing out.  I hadn’t brought a board with me and it looked like a good choice at first.

The next morning dawned bright and clear and the ocean was glassy with clean shoulder high waves peeling in. I was able to rig up one of the liquid shredder boards being used as pool toys into something at least “surfable” and headed into the water about 7am.

Once I got past the breakers the water was Caribbean blue with visibility of around 30 ft (really clear).  Most of the waves coming through were closeouts but I caught one right away that had a nice shoulder. I dropped in, bottom turned and then gave all my effort to steer the water logged, single finned, 5’8” foam board down the line. The ride was short but fast and fun.

I caught several other fun shoulders and even tucked into a few closeout barrels that offered a moment of green-room glory. So while Playa Viva’s surf can’t compete with Loma Bonita a mile to the south or the famous surfbreaks an hour north - Manzanillo Bay and La Saladita - there is a possibility of beach break waves when you come. What the waves lack in quality they make up for in beautiful surroundings, clear water and no crowds for miles around.

More stories from Playa Viva - READ HERE

Thursday – La Lancha

It was time to step up.

We were each getting up pretty easily and riding waves into the beach. The Chica Surfista had her running route down, my spanish was becoming muy buen, and we met a couple more great bartenders here in Punta Mita. Maybe a little more on that later. We even kind of sometimes knew what time it was. And the Chica even laughed when we saw a Chihuahua trying to saddle up a pit bull but couldn’t get past the knee joint.

It was time to go to a real surfing break.

La Lancha is a point break a little more than a 5 minute drive outside of Punta Mita. It’s the kind of place you think about when you think of a surfing spot: rocky landscape, surfers bobbing up and down in the water, random surfer stuff laying around on the beach. It also has a beach break that beginners can ride without having to get in the way of real surfers. It’s the real deal and the reason you would travel all the way to Mexico. But, this being Mexico, there’s a little catch.

According to my spanish translator app “la lancha” means “the boat.” Not so. It actually means “5 minute walk to the beach down a mud caked path through a rain forest populated with any number of bugs you wish you never knew existed but the ones you are certain that exist are the thousands of mosquitos that are flying around and biting you relentlessly that you can’t swat away because you’re carrying a surfboard and you’re afraid of falling and never being able to get out of the mud because it’s so thick and you really start to think you’re the guy in the boat who was sent to get Colonel Kurtz in “Apocalypse Now” except instead of bullets and arrows mosquitos have been sent to kill you and you’ll never see your kids again and why in the hell am I doing this.” Yeah, I wish I would have known this when I tried my translator. I better get my money back.

So our man Jesse has taught us to gather ourselves when we get to the beach and spend time looking out at the ocean evaluating the waves. Look for where the waves are breaking. See when the sets are coming in and get a feel for their rhythm. I only pretended to do this. Instead I took a deep breath, took in my surroundings, and then tried my best to figure out where in the hell a helicopter could land to get me out of there so that I didn’t have to walk back to the car. Then I wondered how much it was going to cost me. Not that I wasn’t going to pay any amount. I just needed to know so I could start to figure out how many pesos it was since I always freeze at the cash register and when the clerk says “two pesos” and I say “Lo siento, no hablo espanol” and she repeats “two pesos” and everyone in line laughs well the whole pesos thing is a problem “Okay let’s get in the water.” What? What?

Oh, and by the way, there was no chance I was going to look at the Chica Surfista. You know how a dog always looks away when it knows it’s in trouble? Exactly.

With my helicopter plan foiled I strapped on my leash, grabbed my board and headed into the water. The difference between La Lancha and Higuera Blanca was pretty significant. At La Lancha we needed to know and use the skills Jesse had talked to us about and you really got a sense of the ocean’s power. One of the first things Jesse taught us was knowing how to either push up or turtle roll when a wave is coming at you. A push up is self-explanatory and it basically keeps the wave from smacking you in the face. When it doesn’t look like you can push up and get over the wave and the wave is going to break on you then you need to turtle roll. Now, the Chica had been a little freaked out when Jesse was going over the whole bottom of the ocean thing. When he explained the turtle roll I kind of hesitated. The turtle roll isn’t hard to understand. Before the wave breaks you grab the board by the rails and flip over so you’re under the board as the wave goes over you. So the concept is pretty simple. What isn’t simple is the reaction your mind has to being instructed to do something completely opposite of what a million years of evolution have taught it to do. Ok, let me get this straight. I have a potential safety issue in the water and the solution is to capsize myself? Huh. That’s like your mom yelling at you to run faster with scissors or your driving instructor passing you a cold one.

But it works and a couple of times at La Lancha I needed it. The waves were bigger and longer which meant the rides were faster and longer as well. That’s the fun part. It also means the paddling is much, much harder and the wipeouts just a little more hairy.

The folks at Wildmex give us a rash guard, which is basically like a skin tight athletic shirt, to put on each day. It’s not mandatory but it’s a pretty good idea unless you don’t care if your nipples are scraped off the rest of your chest. At La Lancha I noticed another couple with the same rash guards and realized they were also there learning to surf.

Here’s the thing about surfers – they’re in great shape. I mean great shape. Old or young they’re almost all ripped. I’m not, and neither was this guy. If I was going to leave Mexico with any pride left I was at least going to out surf the only other guy like me out there.

Who knows if I did. In the end it doesn’t really matter. What did matter was that the imaginary competition in my mind covered up some of the fatigue I was feeling in my body. After a brief break for some water I paddled back out but my arms felt like cement. I had a goal of five more waves and then I’d be done. I caught one wave but fell over pretty quickly because I was just too tired. Pissed, I paddled out again. This time I caught my best wave of the trip and rode it all the way into the beach.

I would have walked an hour in that jungle for that one ride.

READ EARLIER ENTRIES FROM MEXICO:
Day one arriving in Mexico - Part 1
Sunday's surf lesson - Part 2
Surf, Paddle board and Snorkel - Part 3
 
 

Sunday - Surf Day

We got picked up for our first surf lesson by Jesse, who was driving an enormous green van with a couple of surfboards on top. He seemed to be a half hour early or so which turned out to be a half hour late or so because we crossed a river into a new time zone except people don’t like changing their watches when they cross the river so they just use the same time zone. The Mexican space time continuum.

Talk about being completely unprepared.

When you prepare to go snowboarding, even for the first time, you become mentally prepared if only because you go through a process of armoring yourself. Baselayer? Check. Warm socks? Check. Second layer? Check. Outer shell? Check. Boots? Check. Gloves? Check. Helmet? Check. Goggles… It takes a good half hour before you can even think about putting on a board.

Surfing? Ok let’s see. Sunscreen? Check. Board shorts? Check. You’re ready to go. And just like that you’re in a van driving into the Mexican countryside to go surfing.

Jesse is American which is nice There’s only so many times you can say the 5 Spanish words you know just so people here don’t think you’re an asshole. I never say hello, or good afternoon, or friend, or thank you to anybody really. But, if you’re brown and I’m in your town, it’s “Hola, Buenos Dias, amigo, gracias” as soon as you glance at me.

We drove to the other side of Punta Mita from where we’re staying. Driving is a relative term. It’s basically a process of going as fast as you can between speed bumps otherwise known as “Mexican radar guns.” It’s like the whole country is a parking lot except with enormous potholes. We made our way on the main road to Sayulita and then turned off onto a cobblestone road that was the entrance to a little town called “Something Blanca.” Not my words but somebody described it as driving into an old Western. True, but even more than just any old Western I expected to see Clint talking to an empty chair. I thought if you listened closely you could hear the theme song from the “Good, the Bad, and the Ugly” whistling under the sounds of roosters, the shock absorbers of a van under duress, and my nervous chattering/interrogation of Jesse.

From the cobblestone street we turned onto a dirt road which, again, is a relative term. The dirt roads that we’re used to seeing the Amish build? Those things are like Interstate 71 compared to these dirt roads. But just as Mexico can be perfect but flawed it can also be flawed but perfect. This road led us to the coolest beach I’ve ever seen.

Ever watch an episode of Gilligan’s Island and think “Man, that’s a cool setup. Why do they want to leave?” (You know you did. Admit it) That’s what I was thinking as we carried the surfboards to the beach. We were at the apex of a gentle curve of beach that was bookended by two giant rock formations. Like being the queen on a chessboard. We set up under a (insert the whatever the hell the Mexican word for a shelter that’s made from sticks and that has old palm fronds for a ceiling) for a little shade and began our lesson.

It didn’t start well. And we weren’t even in the water yet.

Truth is that Cachorro de Gato (my wife) wasn’t really that thrilled to go surfing. She’s a gamer so she got on the plane but as we were standing there on the beach, feet and minutes from heading into the water her reservations were pretty clear on her face. It didn’t help that Jesse started our lesson with the suggestion that we shuffle our feet at all times because the ocean floor has all kinds of dangerous things on it. He might as well have said we were going to saddle up some spiders and ride them out to the waves.

Ever want to smack someone who’s completely innocent? It’s such a raging personal conflict between doing what you really want to do and needs doing versus the pain of having to explain your actions. Oh, yeah, and there’s the whole morality part of it.

In the end, I didn’t really want to explain myself. Plus, I was betting long. I was betting that despite being away from the kids, despite the travel, despite the Mexican head fake, despite the dogs consummating their relationship without, you know, at least taking their action behind a car or something, that as soon as she rode a wave that it would all be worth it. I was betting that there are transcendental moments in life and surfing was going to be one of them.

She got up the first time and rode the wave all the way into the beach.

READ MORE ABOUT OUR MEXICO ADVENTURES:

Day one arriving in Mexico - Part 1
Surf, Paddle board and Snorkel - Part 3
Stepping it up, surfing La Lancha - Part 4

Guest Post by Dan from Ohio - read more details about his Mexican surf trip on his blog

Saturday - Travel Day

We found our driver or, more accurately, he found us. Rico. Nice kid. He took us to our “2010 or better Suburban” which looked suspiciously and identically like a 2005 white Ford Econoline cargo van. I love the Mexican head fake. It’s what make this place so charming. Paradise but not quite. Perfect but flawed. The athletic facility with a treadmill that’s really a street. The condo with a full service kitchen that has a Viking range but no toaster or sharp knives. A washer, but no dryer. Two chairs, one cushion. Going to Mexico is like getting into the ring with a great fighter. You keep looking for the left hand and you get hit with the right.

Cachorro de Gato and I made our way to the grocery store which was a lot of fun. The Mega looked like any grocery store in the states. Produce section, rows with dry goods, meat section. Some things even looked familiar. But everything is in Spanish and you have to fumble your way through. It’s strange to walk into a place that your mind first goes into auto pilot because you recognize everything but then it slowly switches into survival mode when you realize you don’t have a clue. It’s like when a big storm blows a river in the opposite direction. instead of getting calmer as you’re exposed to a situation, you get more rattled. Is this really butter? How much is 80 pesos? Why is the orange juice in a box? Who is Tony Tigre and are those really Frosted Flakes or are they going to be mini-corn tostadaenchilacotillas with jalapenos?

Have I mentioned the dogs yet? They’re everywhere.

The Hotel Cinco is a great place. After a long day of traveling we were met by Horatio and Rodrigo who couldn’t be nicer. It strikes me how similar Mexicans are to the Irish. They both live next to rich neighbors who look down on them. They love God just as deeply as they love their music, dancing, and their big families. And, my favorite part, they’re incredibly warm and welcoming and funny but in the back of your mind you know that they know that they could kick your ass anytime they wanted to. The Mexican head fake. 

I’ve learned from Ricky that no matter where you go in the world you have to find your spot. Here’s the thing about a spot: it only has to have one thing to qualify. That one thing? Great bartender.

We found our spot. Sam and Emma. He tends bar and she cooks and they both do it really well. After a long day of traveling, and grocery shopping, we were looking forward to a cold cerveza. We made our way to the rooftop bar at the hotel which is unbelievable cool. Sam gave us the lowdown on where to go and where to eat and Emma made us these awesome lobster tacos and this shrimp cerviche that was killer. Gave us a chance to collect our breath and get our bearings because we then…

…took a walk in Mexico!

So Punta Mita is a tourist town but not in the traditional sense. It’s very small with a couple of hotels and restaurants. There’s a surf shop and a place you can rent bikes and that’s about it. One block from the beach is safe but definitely not touristy. We forgot sunscreen so we decided to go out and grab some. We headed to a little store a couple blocks away on a nice romantic walk. Mexico and a couple cervezas can do that to you. As we were dodging rain drops we came across the archetypal symbols of Mexico: kids playing soccer barefoot in the street, men drinking cervezas in a open air bar, beat up cars avoiding being beaten even more by giant potholes, soldiers in fatigues walking down the street with semi- automatic weapons, dog..wait..WTFa Are those guys really carrying…? Holy shit. Now I’m certain even my gun loving friends would have thought twice about a couple of guys walking down the street with rifles. The Mexican head fake.

READ MORE

Sunday's surf lesson - Part 2
Surf, Paddle board and Snorkel - Part 3
Stepping it up, surfing La Lancha - Part 4

{This has been a guest post from Dan}

 

Price - Only $20

Maldives - the land of private resorts and private waves

Have you ever thought much about the issue of “private waves”? 

In researching locations for Wavecation every now and then I’ve come across a surf camp or hotel that claims to “own” a wave and the decision is usually made to not include them on Wavecation.  Something just doesn’t sit right with me about the concept of owning a wave - the ultimate form of localism.

So in researching the Maldives recently I was taken back to learn that almost ALL of the main breaks in the North Male Atoll - the most surfable Atoll in the group - were privately “owned” by hotels and resorts. And not only that, some of the resorts won’t even allow their own guests to surf the waves right out front unless you buy a surf pass, almost like a ski lift pass. The Chaaya Island Resort is listed on Expedia but if you book the hotel there you’ll see a message alerting you to the fact that if you are a surfer you have to book elsewhere if you want surfing privileges during your stay. Is it just me or is that crazy?

Apparently there are only 4 public breaks in the region and local surfers are up in arms because there is talk of a new surf resort that would own 2 of the last remaining 4 public surf breaks? Though the new resort said they would open up 1 or 2 times PER MONTH to let the local surfers surf a few waves.  WHAT!  In fact the whole situation is so incredibly confusing about where to stay to get access to which waves I found myself drawing a map just to keep it all straight.

I’ve never even been to the Maldives, I don’t know the history there or who all the players are in what is surely a complicated issue. But how much would it stink if the next time you went to Hawaii or Costa Rica you had to stay at a certain hotel to surf a certain wave... that would really bite!

Tavarua in Fiji has long had access to “private” surf breaks and for some reason that never bothered me as much. I think because you only went there to surf and other resorts weren’t around. In the Maldives you could show up for a family vacation or a dive trip and then see a perfect wave in front of your resort but be barred from surfing it.

Like I said, I haven’t been there and don’t know all the facts. Maybe you’ve surfed there or have looked into it? What are your thoughts?

When it comes to surfing, some surf breaks are made for beginners. Think of these as the bunny slopes of the surf world. You’re no doubt familiar with many of them. Waikiki beach in Hawaii is one of the best. Tamarindo in Costa Rica is also popular. Both offer warm water, tropical surroundings, gentle waves and plenty of options for surf lessons and surf board rentals.

But what if you’re not in Hawaii or Costa Rica? What if you’re looking for a surf experience closer to home? Well, you just might have better options than you thought.

Here are five great beginner surf breaks you probably haven't heard of, close to home:

· Galveston Island, Texas
Everything’s bigger in Texas, except the waves. Though Galveston isn’t your traditional surfing hotspot, this island off the Texas coast produces small waves almost year round. With a sandy bottom, warm water and plenty of room to spread out, it’s an ideal beginner surf spot. Several local shops offer board rentals and surf lessons and being less than an hour from Houston, it’s a great family day trip. Or rent on of the hundreds of vacation homes on the island and make a week of it.

· Folly Beach, South Carolina
This popular beach vacation destination lies just outside of Charleston. Folly Beach is home to a few miles of surf spots including The Washout—a favorite break for the more experienced surfers. The novice wave rider can paddle out almost anywhere else along the beach and find suitable beginner waves. Be sure to check the pier—there’s usually good surf on both sides, but the water is off-limits to surfers during peak summer hours so go early or catch a sunset session.

· Tofino, British Columbia
If there is a cold water Waikiki, it may be Tofino. This drop-dead gorgeous stretch of coastline in Canada is a surfer’s dream, even if it is a bit chilly. With a good wetsuit and booties (available for rent at any of the town’s surf shops) you’ll forget all about the cold water and be swept away by the fun waves and incredible scenery of mountains, islets and temperate rain forest. Tofino is a tourist town so you’ll have no shortage of quaint places to stay right on the beach. You’ll be sipping hot coffee by the fire while watching the waves. Try the Wickaninnish Inn for a luxury surf front retreat.

· Mondos, California
Located in the tiny community of Faria Beach, this is one of California’s most beginner friendly waves. The toughest part about your day will probably be climbing down the rocks to the beach—after that it’s smooth sailing. Waves break far out and then slowly roll to shore creating long, predictable and relatively gentle rides. Bring your towel and a lunch because you may want to stay all day. Mondo’s is about two miles north of Ventura or about one and a half hours north of Los Angeles although it feels world’s away. The best way to experience Mondos is to rent one of the beach homes overlooking the waves—then surf to your heart’s content all week.

· Pacific City, Oregon
Kiwanda Cove is a breathtaking setting that is popular for weekend getaways, hang gliding and, of course, surfing. This area is perfect for the beginner surfer who doesn’t mind donning some rubber to stay warm. The waves are soft and rolling and there are no big rocks to worry about. Your best bet is to visit in the summer when waves are smaller, warmer and better for learning. After your surf lesson warm up by hiking the monster sized sand dune at the north end of the beach and enjoy the views from the top.

Even though your schedule or budget may not allow for a tropical surf getaway this year, don’t let that stop you. Check out one of these nearby beginner surf spots and give surfing a try. You’ll be hanging ten before you know it.

Article written by Matt at Wavecation and originally published by our fiends at Jaunted.com, check out their cool travel site.

Is “learn to surf” on your bucket list? If not, it should be. Not only is surfing one of the world’s most popular sports, it also enjoys an extremely high “cool factor” which keeps the newbies flooding in. Before you frolic out into the waves however, here are a few things you should know about surfing:

· Do take a lesson
Sure you can figure it out on your own, just like you can spend all day at the ski slopes flailing down the mountain, but why would you? There are professionals to help with this. The art of surfing requires an understanding of numerous nuances and subtleties that demand years of practice. Learn some pointers from someone who’s already paid their dues.

· Choose a good beginners area
Just like ski spots have bunny slopes, the surf world has waves for beginners; Waikiki Beach in Hawaii, Tamarindo in Costa Rica, or Tourmaline in Southern California are three excellent starters. Check out a few more in our earlier article. You should look for easy breaking waves, plenty of room to spread out and a forgiving bottom surface.

· Bigger is better
Learning to surf on a longboard (usually 8-9 feet long) is much easier than the speedy and sharp-nosed short boards. Save the short boards for advanced surfers who need maneuverability. You need stability.

· Don’t turn your back on the ocean
Waves come in sets of three to four, usually followed by a lull of a few minutes with smaller or no waves. A rookie mistake is facing the shore while waiting for the next set. If and when you do, you may be too far in when the set arrives and you’ll get caught in the crushing whitewater of the waves. Face the horizon and keep looking around to stay aware of your surroundings.

· Give in to playtime
If you haven’t spent much time in the ocean, give yourself some time to swim around in the waves and bodysurf. Leave the board on the beach and feel the way the waves push and pull. It’s easier to pay attention to what the waves are doing when you’re not concerned about wrangling your surfboard.

· Know the code
There is a “surfer’s code” comprised of many unwritten rules that apply in the water. The surfer’s code protects the safety of everyone involved and ensures fairness based on seniority. A few of the more important guidelines include:
1. Paddle wide around the waves—not through them—on your way back out so you’re not in the path of surfers.
2. If someone is already on the wave, it’s their wave. Don’t catch the same wave and get in front of them, that’s called snaking.
3. Don’t hog the waves. Share. Smile. It’s called the Aloha spirit.

The best thing about surfing is it’s fun from day one! Don’t worry about riding the tube, or perfecting a roundhouse cutback. Just stand up, yell “Woo-hoo” and enjoy the ride!

This post was written by Matt at Wavecation and orginally posted by our friends over at Jaunted.com

PANAMA
(Guest post courtesy of Swell Magnet)

If Topanga is “On the beaten path”, and K38 is “Off the beaten path”, then the only way to describe Morro Negrito Island in Panama is “DEEP REMOTE”. I recently returned from a week’s stay at Steve Thompson’s surf camp and I can truly say that he has found some real secret-spots. I went down there with ten buddies and guess what??? There were a total of 11 guys surfing and not another surfing soul to be found for at least 50-100 miles. While I did not like every break we surfed and we did not get perfect surf every day, the travel and adventure experience was a priceless.

Morro Negrito Surf Camp is located on a small island called La Ensenada off the Pacific coast of Panama. To get there from LA, you need to fly 6 hours to Panama City; take a 6-8 hour bus ride to a launch not to far from a town called David, and get on a ponga boat for an hour boat ride to a serene beach that flanks the camp. Now that does not sound to time consuming on the surface, but you also need to hit the launch on a high tide. Tides in Panama are a 17-foot swing! Arriving on a low tide turned the above journey into a two-day trek. While we did enjoy getting some time to explore Panama City, the anticipation was too much for some of the guys who were a bit cranky about the delays.

 Lodging: bunks and mosquito nets, electric fans for the evenings. Restroom: manually flushing toilets and bucket showers. If you go during the less arid season that starts in the end of May, you will get fresh spring water showers and all the pure island water you can drink.

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Staff: friendly and helpful, Antonio is a master at opening coconuts and Jeff the surf-guide was great and always was looking out for us.

The Surf: To start off, the water is 80-82 degrees, the sun is intense. Bring a long sleeve rashguard and some good facial sun block. While there are a few sandy breaks, the real surf can be found with a rocky bottom, boils and tabletop reefs that keep you on your toes. Also, the tidal swings of around 17 feet can have a drastic effect on any break, your surf guide can help you with the right break for each tide and swell condition.

My favorite break is called Left-Overs. It is located off of the neighboring island, Silva. Left-Overs is a wave that sets up next to/over a rock pile and bends around in a perfectly shaped left that is like a little machine. We surfed this break only a few times, but got it from shoulder high to well over head. If you cannot surf and enjoy this wave you should pick up a new sport. This wave is made for cutbacks, floaters and off the lip snaps.
 

Next to Left-Overs is P-Land. This is undoubtedly the heaviest barreling wave at Morro Negrito. We caught this break on a rather big and harry day. It is also a left and while there were no serious injuries at P-Land, it did claim one board and scared the crap out of myself and most of the crew. It breaks over a gnarly tabletop reef and is unforgiving if you get stuck on the inside. Later during our visit we caught it on a smaller day we had a bit of fun (less adrenaline), but still very challenging.

Please visit Swell Magnet's Surf Travel page to finishe reading about their Morro Negrito trip.

See more photos and inquire about booking a surf trip at Morro Negrito